Mitsouko

There is the extrait, the eau de parfum, and this, the eau de toilette. The extrait is undoubtedly the benchmark - as can be said with most Guerlain perfumes - but so complex, mysterious, and multidimensional is Mitsouko that even in three different concentrations the perfume still elicits a weak-at-the-knees reaction from me regardless of the one I'm wearing. The opening of the EdT is the same irrespective of the concentration, that powdery bergamot - a Guerlain signature - nestled on a bed of ripe and juicy peach skin that is quietened down significantly compared to the other concentrations, and the roses and jasmine smell dried rather than freshly bloomed. Notably missing in the EdT is the citrusy-juicy floral sweetness of the ylang-ylang, a key note of the other concentrations. This immediately gives the EdT a sharper, crisper, airy yet more rigid or stately character. In the other concentrations, Mitsouko always felt to me like the soft and polite smile of a kind and beautiful person; a radiant yet restrained smile presented from soft lips and warm eyes. The EdT still smiles like the other concentrations, but their back is straighter, their shoulders pushed back, their neck long and stiffened. Despite this statelier presentation the EdT somehow very successfully presents itself as much lighter and more diffusive than its sister concentrations; it's easier to make perfumes more rigid by adding heavy materials, like those that present woody or earthy notes, but the EdT avoids this cliche with impeccable style and grace. This change of character is evident in the dry down as well, with the vetiver playing a much smaller role and dry amber and oakmoss (a synthetic oakmoss to be noted in this modern formulation) playing greater roles than they do in the other concentrations, encouraging Mitsouko to lean more into its chypre side rather than balance out a bit with balsamic amber notes. For the men out there who might find the extrait and EdP concentrations a bit too feminine - a point I've ranted about before - the EdT is likely going to be more in their lane. Thankfully, for the rest of us that believe this to be one of the best perfumes of all time and couldn't give less of a damn which sex it portends, the EdT maintains the overall character and spirit of Mitsouko whomever she was. Though not as complex as the extrait or EdP, keeping her feelings and thoughts more to herself in the EdT, you cannot help but be allured by her magnetic, gentle, and kind beauty. Many thanks to Guerlain for only slightly changing Mitsouko's mood, and not her person.

I really like it. It reminds me of days spent with my mother and grandparents at the beach and then having a lovely dinner together. I kept trying to pin down why my association with this scent was so oddly specific, until I realised it was a bottle of conditioner sitting in my grandma's shower, which I often used on days like this to get ready for dinner, that brought up this memory. It was a beeswax and honey conditioner and this is exactly what this perfume reminds me of, with more of a waxy smell than there is sweetness. There's definitely a certain sweet undertone to it, but also a sharp and almost green cleanliness. I personally can't find any similarity to Chanel No. 5 (as someone mentioned that) and the review that I most likely would agree with is "powdery roses". Though roses in my opinion are almost too sweet to describe it, there is something reminiscent of flowers in this. I also think that 'herbal' or 'mossy' are good words to describe the character of this scent. I like it very much and it lasts quite long on my skin. I do however think it's not an everyday scent. It is interesting and intriguing, as someone said, difficult to pin down, but to me it is also a little overpowering. It is a nice fragrance to wear in the evening or when you need a confidence boost. It has a somewhat strict and linear vibe to me, in spite of its complexity. I would recommend it personally, but I don't think it's a mainstream 'easy to like' scent.

This is a wonderful chypre perfume. Mitsouko is warmer, and more down to earth than her older sister L'Heure Bleue. I remember all of my Grandmother's wearing fragrances like Mitsouko and I always thought they smelled wonderful. This starts very earthy in the opening, very warm earth, a just misted over dusty earth, the spices are warmer and a bit moist, not as arid as they are in L'Heure Bleue. The peach is juicy and sweet but it never overpowers the spices, this isn't a perfume that wants to smell like peach pie! No way! This is a perfume worn by a lover longing to give her beloved an embrace that pours out all of the affection and warmth in her heart. She will never stray, she is grounded, warm, sensual and giving. L'Heure Bleue is of the clouds, of dreams that can never come true, she is melancholy, and wistful and there are certain times for that type of perfume but Mitsouko is so much happier because she is in the here and now and she is happy. I will cherish both of these fragrances but I see myself wearing Mitsouko on a regular basis. She is more my personality.

Every time I sniff from my precious tiny decant of Mitsouko, I think, "How am I going to handle not having this when it runs out?" And yet I made a pact with myself to buy no more perfume. I will put this on my wish list; maybe when I use up my 75 ml bottle of L'Heure Bleue, I'll get Mitsouko next. Of course, given the number of my perfumes, and the relative infrequency with which I wear L'H B, despite loving it, I might never get around to a full bottle of Mitsouko. So maybe a larger decant. At any rate, it's a fascinating fragrance, like a spicy peach in a sun-dappled forest. I love the cinnamon note, which seems to function a bit like the clove or anise in L'H B and Après l'ondée. I pick up on the ylang-ylang more than the rose and jasmine, but it's still distinctly a green floral chypre with fruity top and midnotes. I bet the vintage is sublime, with the real oakmoss and other currently banned natural ingredients. But this is absolutely beautiful, and I would love to smell it on my man, even though I know he would never consent to wearing it.

Just smelled this for the first time after ordering a decant. I'd been curious about it for a long time because it's such an historic fragrance and was rated a 5 star masterpiece in the first edition of Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez's The Guide. I bought it more to satisfy my curiosity than because I thought I'd like it. It doesn't strike me as a common scent that many people wear on the regular, so it didn't occur to me that I may have smelled it before. But the initial whiff had a wave of nostalgia wash over me. I can't place exactly who in my family may have worn this, but I'm convinced either one of my grandmas, a great aunt, someone at some point wore this. It feels so comforting and cozy and familiar to me to the point of making me emotional. It's not something I would wear out for an event or everyday. Just something I might wear around the house when I want to channel those loved ones I miss and feel soothed.