L'Oudh

Hands down my favorite from the house and one of my favorite uses of oud in a more or less commercial offering on the market. The house is a hit or miss for me, but this little fellow hits the spot. To my nose, the perfume is not an oud-centric composition but rather uses the material to pull off an overall accord that feels larger than the sum of its parts. This perfume is dark, bitter, dry, and earthy. There's nothing pretty about it. Zero sweetness. The best way I can describe it is the smell of an old carpet found in a castle ruin right in the middle of a thick, old forest. Seriously now, it does smell like an old carpet. It has this betel leaf-like bitterness, a vivid earthiness from both the oud and the mushroom, and a slightly chewy quality from the resins. The castoreum is brilliantly used to suggest a leather accord, while the cypriol rounds off the composition and completes the "Oud Accord". I dislike cypriol in perfumes when it's poorly blended as I struggle with the ingredient, but here, it doesn't bother me one bit. The fragrance is monolithic and linear. What you get on the first spray is what you're left with for the rest of the day. Usually, I'm not a fan of that as I get bored rather quickly, however, when the smell and the vision the scent portrays are so well placed, as in this case, I love that it doesn't change. I would place this perfume in my "special" category under the "Medieval Perfumes" moniker. Scents that smell old, dark, and ancient. And that's exactly what you'll get with this one.

This was in my Tauer discovery kit which I recommend for the little high quality and vintage looking sample case alone. (Literally exactly what I was looking for light travel with multiple scents and the main reason I got it as I've been wanting to try L'Oudh for years.) Even so, I was surprised at what a stand out this was for me. IN LOVE with this Oud! Yes, I can see how it is challenging for some, but I just wanted to press my face against it. I used to take care of horses and it smells like a room full of expensive yet used saddles. Like planting your face deep in the well worn leather, the old sweat (not fresh or skanky somehow though?), fresh horse manure is in there too which I love the smell of (not feces in general, just horse manure), the oils used to clean leather, all blended together. I've never experienced an oud or another fragrance like this. I am buying it just to sniff from time to time as it is so deep and grounding and evokes wonderful memories of taking care of horses, but I think it will also be great for fall and winter evening layering. I wouldn't wear it alone, but a certain type of quiet, natural, confident, masculine guy could wear it alone.

I'm not drawn to oud scents, and in my Tauer sample set L'Oudh intimidated me the most. The opening was challenging for me-- smoky burnt rubber, melted plastic, earthy mushrooms, bitter greens, dry leather, medicinal aromatics, something funky/musty and shadowy --but these impressions only last a few minutes when applied to the skin. (On fabric, I haven't yet gotten the nerve.) Then L'Oudh becomes surprisingly soft. It is softer than the Tauer attar, though L'Oudh is much less floral and more dry. There's a smooth powderiness that makes it approachable. The dark opening notes nest themselves and give depth, contrast, and nuance to a bright incense ribbon woven throughout the long drydown. It's discreet but distinct, comfortable but not lacking character or adornment. I don't feel as if the perfume is wearing me or taking me along on a trip. This is not a Magic Carpet Ride. I can't compare to other oud-forward compositions, but for me this was a very enjoyable introduction to the material.

This is closer to engine oil, new linoleum floors or cutting through rubber mats than to anything I would consider animalic. Personally, I enjoy that sort of experience and for an hour, this is what you get from Tauer's L'Oudh. After that, it settle into a quieter leather oud scent profile. This is not a huge projector and I keep a miniature around for sniffing purposes while I'm relaxing at home. The fellow reviewer before me who compared it to CdG's "Garage" makes a good point and it was the first fragrance that came to mind when I was trying to think of something comparable. CdG's proposition is also a little more livelier and wearable than L'Oudh. Also, Tom Ford's Oud Minerale with its plastic and rubber notes plays roughly in the same ballpark.

A very interesting masculine Western interpretation of the Oud note. The mostly natural perfume opens with central Laotian Oud note that stays throughout the length of the perfume. At first it is enveloped in a smoky cloud of mushroom, tobacco, styrax and synthetic castoreum. The cloudy notes slowly dissipate to reveal slight incensy white florals and as the perfume dries off one can detect notes of sandalwood, patchouli, cypriol, vetiver and synthetic musk. The masculine perfume is constructed beautifully and has moderate sillage and very good longevity. Overall a fairly nice smoky powdery Oud experience that does not overwhelm, yet is far from underwhelming. Enjoy!