Eau De Mandarine Ambree

Eau de Mandarine Ambree was released six years ago as a part of the Les Colognes Hermes series. The perfumer behind was legendary Jean-Claude Ellena, the master of meticulous fragrant touch. Although the name of the fragrance suggests a mandarin-based creation, personally I found it more clementine than mandarin. Clementine shares the same sweetness with mandarin, but possesses an additional green aspect possibly from a special kind of seeds. This clementine is hyper realistic, strong and has slightly synthetic touch. During 10-15 minutes clementine gradually morphs into sweeter and more tropical phase. I have to admit, if hadn’t looked at the note breakdown before, I wouldn’t identify it as passion fruit. This transition is very smooth and gentle. The parallel transition from clementine to amber-like base is equally smooth. I deliberately use the term “amber-like” because in my opinion the present is just some melancholic shades of amber. The clementine acquires some light touch of vanilla, and becomes just lightly sweeter. It is still a cheerful fragrance, but the present is some late summer melancholy. Like the summer is almost gone, and autumn is just around the corner. Summer loves are gone, and soon they will be forgotten.

Opens up with what to me is so far the most natural orange tree or blossom scent, slightly sweet but remaining earthy and natural. The fragrance is relatively monotone, but this isn't necessarily bad. While the sweetness tip wears off, the amber and slightly base with a clearly orange overtone stay true to the opening. I can can still easily smell it on my arm 6 hours later, but I don't think it's longevity is the next level up. I smell this as ever so slightly masculine, over unisex. It is a nice charming, spring or summer scent that gets very close to my own imaginary fragrance. I can see layering this with something with a larger base to give an orange twist to it as well. The other fragrances in the series are nice, but for me this one reigns supreme, however it is no longer listed on their website, so who knows about its future. I nice daily fragrance while seeking something magical.

Mandarine Ambrée has very smooth and natural opening with alive mandarine but in some seconds comes to the surface the equally strong note of amber which brings some warmness. Fortunately the amber is toned down, a summer type of amber smell. The two ingredients mix perfectly to a velvety smooth citrus scent for spring and summer. I can detect a mild and weak bitterness and a discreet pinch of sweetness. The passion fruit is here but not vividly. As time passes, it becomes more alive but stays forever at the background. In half an hour it becomes a mouthwatering mandarine scent.. not so fresh because of the amber note, but perfectly for warm weather. It's like you have some mandarines in front of you and some sweets, it's probably a fruit cake in a distance taking whiffs now and then.

For once, Hermès' note listing tells the full story, or at least most of it. Knowing Jean-Claude Ellena, there's probably incense or some obscure spice bubbling in the background in addition to the succulent fruit and silky amber, but the main impression here is mandarin - not sticky or overly sweet, but realistically juicy all the same, with a layer of passionfruit to make the whole thing smell as drinkable as it is wearable. Eau de Mandarine Ambrée is arguably the least esoteric of the Hermès cologne line, an exercise in the beauty of simplicity and the uncomplicated joy of sweet citrus done really, really well. The lasting power is perfect - not as fleeting as Eau d'Orange Verte (gone in 60 glorious seconds), but not one of those modern

Really warm and sunny amber with orange and passion fruit. Couldn't get any more tropical! Smells high quality due to the organic and natural feel of the orange and passion fruit, pulpy and bursting with juice, almost tangible on your tongue and uvula flowing down your throat. The amber is really strong and powerful here and radiates so much solar warmth in the most vibrant orange golden hue! Sillage is remarkable during the opening, then slowly dies down within the hour. Longevity is on the weaker end of moderate on my skin. It is value for money based on the ephemeral but realistic orange + passion fruit accord alone. With the amber, it became an original and unique masterpiece worth at least trying once!