Zizonia

This is another of the family that I would call "light woods," and initially I thought it was going to be very close to their Opus 1870. It's very subtle right out of the vial, with a similar sweet (but not sweetened?) cedar and some orange. It has just enough of the dry pencil-shavings to be a true, believable wood scent, without going overboard; it feels like the notes stay near the surface but I wouldn't call it shallow. It's like a vague shadow of Nicolai New York that has shed the heavier components. There's maybe a hint of bubblegum (frankincense?) in there but not enough to spoil it. I think that Zizonia retains discretely detectable wood and floral notes, while in Opus everything blends together into a transparent, uniform wall of scent. Unfortunately my nose got stuffed up halfway through this, so I may rewrite it later, but I also know that it's weak from previous trials, and that it possesses the same soft, powdery vibe that neuters a lot of their "masculine" offerings.

I've been coveting a few Penhaligon's fragrances based on their reviews, namely Elixir and Malabah. I hadn't smelled them, but thought they seemed like the best fit for me. I ended up winning them inexpensively on eBay, and threw in Zizonia because it was also inexpensive. Elixir is good. Malabah is a little more modern and mainstream than I was looking for. Zizonia? It's the real gem of the bunch. Classy without being dated. Doesn't smell synthetic. Nothing dominates. It's expertly blended. It's inoffensive, but not boring. Both my husband and I can wear it. I've only tried it in cold weather, but it seems like it would wear well in any season. Zizonia was the surprise favorite of my Penhaligan's purchases, and I'm so grateful I decided to order it.

I managed to stumble upon a 2017 bottle for next to nothing on a webshop — and this fragrance is absolutely incredible! It instantly reminds me of Silver Mountain Water and Mefisto. On my skin, the ginger and lavender really dominate the scent, leading into a beautiful vetiver- and earthy patchouli-based drydown. The opening is a bit sharp and citrusy for the first few minutes, but it fades quickly. I paid around $50 for 100 ml — unbeatable deal

There is a picture in one of the books released by makeup artist Kevyn Aucoin, I forget if it was Making Faces or Face Forward, where a sooty-eyed and dark-lipped Kate Moss gives the camera a stern look that contrasts with the wealth of tiny curls exploding from underneath her headscarf (image search "Kate Moss Biba look" if you are curious). Indeed, Biba, the legendary London store that reinvented 1930's glam for the 1970's.

It’s like a ginger/cardamom heaven... like walking out of the elegant barber shop in 4th.arrondissement in Paris in late May, on a recently showered, now sunny, street where the scent of lavender lingers in front of some new-age-vintage cosmetic shop next to the florist with a green grosser on the opposite side of the street...blissfully spicy warm freshness in the air...